Monday, 2 May 2011

One's Albion In The Making . . . . .

What with the weather being balmy, the hottest of all Aprils in the last 350 years apparently, everything around me has almost never seemed so grey. A full week of peering out into a stark reality whilst not wanting at all to peer inside & begin to ask where a bout of  "Dreaded Dandy's Debauchery" came from? Not much was elegant, pretty much all, in truth was tragic.

In the last day or so, it is reflections on a couple of quotes from a certain Mr Horsley that the thought of getting up & dressed is once again inspiring me as it should, to go out into the world & start becoming the man I believe I was meant to be.

"Being well-dressed gives a feeling of inward tranquility which psychoanalysis is powerless to bestow."

Thank God for Sebastian.  

When what you wear directly influences how you feel, how you present yourself to the world & in all honesty, how the world perceives you. For it is a fact that it is only the shallow people who DO NOT judge by first impressions and appearances. So I return to colour of cloth to brighten up my visions of Grey.

Not many folks do this as well Le Sapeurs. A group of Gentleman from the Brazzaville region of the Congo.



“Le Sap is our essence,” explains sapeur Willy Cavory a leading practitioner of , Le Sape – The Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes (The society for people of elegance and ambiance)- otherwise referred as the ‘religion of clothing.’




“ It is our way of life and not just the dressing,” he continues. “ It is how we express our individuality and our character. Along with our families, Le Sap, is our reason for being. “



That in itself is quite some statement, "it is our reason for being".



So much of their way of life is inspirational, coming from the most poverished & humble of backgrounds, there dress is in complete contrast to this and really is the finest celebration of life.

The movement was sparked by Congolese musician Papa Wemba, in the 1960′s and 1970′s, who had been inspired by European clothing and products that were eventually banned after Zaire’s independence. Due to political issues, his exquisite taste and “promotion of high standards of personal cleanliness, hygiene and smart dress, to a whole generation of youth across Zaire, essentially kept him an a controversial spotlight. These proud African men come in peace and are the epitome of a fashionable laissez faire, standing firm by their motto “Let’s drop the weapons, let us work and dress elegantly.”

The Sapeurs belong to Le SAPE which stands for the Société des Ambianceurs et Personnes Élégants. "Members have their own code of honour, codes of professional conduct and strict notions of morality. It is a world within a world within a city.  Respected and admired in their communities, todays sapeurs see themselves as artists. Each one has his own repertoire of gestures that distinguishes him from the others. They are also after their own great dream: to travel to Paris and to return to Bacongo as lords of elegance.

Photographer Daniele Tamagni's new book Gentlemen of Bacongo captures the fascinating subculture.


A few of their axioms:
  1. A Congolese Sapeur is a happy man even if he does not eat, because wearing proper clothes feeds the soul and gives pleasure to the body.
  2. A real Sapeur needs to be cultivated and speak fluently, but also have a solid moral ethic: that means beyond the appearance and vanity of smart, expensive clothing there is the moral nobility of the individual.
  3. When the Sapeur expresses himself through the harmony of his clothes, he is returning his admiration to God.
  4. A Sapeur does not shed blood. Your clothes do all the fighting for you, otherwise you are not fit to be called a Sapeur.
They all sound fine by me! The one chap below, I found an image of months ago, had cut out & fixed to his own board so standing next to a cigarette box, holds his posture with as much elegance as any man I've ever come across along with a self assured knowledge that his "reason for being" is unashamedly being fulfilled.




It is with hope that I may once again steer myself  toward  my own Albion, in a manner that could go unnoticed, though still adhere to  personal ideals that will clear the wreckage of my past, making amends & in as gracious manner as possible.











Monday, 11 April 2011

The Love Of A Small Town

It's hard for me to believe that it's almost four whole years since I left London's West End & moved down here to the South Coast. Three months was the plan. Just to clear my head, inhale fresh air & decide what "I really want to do with my life" and so forth.

But with property prices being so low, a 10 month lease on a town house here was the equivalent of just 2 months in Ol' London Town. There were other draws to it also, being able to ride my '62 Vespa on long winding roads, not stopping for half hour or so due to the lack of traffic. And no more risky filtering between cabs & white vans. Less than 5 minutes walk are over 20 miles of sandy beaches and picteresque cosatlines as opposed to 20 mile traffic jams & picturesque transvestites.

I still professed, "I'll be going home soon", and I did mean it, I missed the smoke, the noise & the annonymity  Londinium offers. Though it was only up to six months ago that I am seemingly becoming so grateful for the sense of community that lies here in little old Bournemouth Town.

Last Sunday at a  car boot I found "The Official Guide for Bournemouth 1938-39" & I once again marvelled at the surrounding beauty of  this place, only now,  I'm fairly comftable in saying, is my home.






I was born on the Fulham Road in Chelsea, grew up within a stones throw of London's Victoria Station. I adore every one of London's 33 boroughs, worked & lived in the West End most of my adult life, where my folks still live.  So coming to sense I am fairly settled elsewhere surprises them still, as well as myself.






Though settled I am. And unresevedly, falling in love helped! Meeting Miss Zozo Gabor of Love From Hetty & Dave has undoubtedly been the the high point of my 32 years. Falling in love in an English seaside resort was the last thing I ever thought would happen to a guy like me.


Years of debauchery in London hadn't equipped me for falling head of heels!

So whilst residing in this little town it's afforded me the luxury of entertaining my love of all things Vintage & has been my vessel  that I still sail on today towards my Albion. Predominanyly in the 1950's & '60's being well known as a retirement town, toady there is absolutely lorry loads of Vintage clothing hoarded in many thousands of elderly persons bungalows! For which, I for one am truly grateful!

The sense of community here is alive & strong. On our road where the HQ of Love From Hetty & Dave is,  there are four other Vintage boutiques & a number of Antique shops. Everybody knows eachother, what the other stocks, specialises in & often send customers eachother's way.

Then there are friends where, on Sundays we pop round for "High Tea". Yesterday was splendid at Lord Jason The Barber's & Tammy Dixie Doll Bailey's! I'm not sure it could have any more English, pipe smoking, Earl Gray, croquet in the garden!


Also keeping entertained & viewing the Barber's collection of Pipes, books, gramaphones & his safe,



And a few items purchased from yours truly!


Badmington as well as croquet!


I could make a few quid with this on the Circle Line Tube on my next trip back.


Gramaphone & safe, both in full working order of course.



And not short of a cup of Rosy.


And how lovely it is to be given gifts which will add to my smoking collection. A '40's pipe rack & empty chromed badge for engraving!


Life for this Londoner, is almost too lovely by the Sea & probably now time for another cuppa . . . . . . .

Thursday, 31 March 2011

A Snip On Saturday . . . . . .

The week started last Saturday, I had no intention of drastically changing anything when I awoke & breezed in to the HQ of Love From Hetty & Dave looking forward to meeting lots of new customers that the day would bring. Come mid morning I cycled down to my barber & once sat in the chair & removing my hat I commenced to say, " do as you wish". Which surprised him as much as myself.

Though I am fortunate enough to have a barber, who is not only a barber, but also a Lord!


Lord Jason "The Barber" Bailey.


And so I have begun to trust him implicity. He has noted my sway from a '60's Mod back to a '40's/'50's Chap in the last couple of months & so accordingly gave me a trim to suit my new attire. The girl says he's making me into a clone of himself! Well that wouldn't be a bad thing. He is known fairly well as a Dandy & never hesistates to place style before substance! So of course he could do as he wished with my locks!




 It met to the Girl's approval, thank God!



So the Brylcreem has been bought for the Swing nights that lay ahead!

Also, arriving from America this week was my cut-throat razor, from the Department store J.C.Vickery.




Being a collector of all sorts of luxury items from this store, which opened on Regent Street in 1899, it still looks as polished as it must've been some 100 years ago. Not daring to use it quite yet, a few "lessons" are booked in with The Lord before it cuts over my epidermis!



Staying closed for a while yet.

Since my transition back a decade or two, it seems as if a whole new world lays in front of me & it is it would seem, fairly daunting. One harsh lesson I have already learnt was from The Barber a few weeks back when attending a the 1940's event Swing For Victory. "I would never be seen dead in clip on braces" he piped. To me, while wearing a pair myself.  Lesson learnt.

So certain "rules" must be adhered to, so it is in the Mod lifestyle & so it's the way of the earlier Vintage enthusiast also. Mostly tongue in cheek, but fairly informative nonetheless I obtained a copy of The Manifaesto. By The Chap.


Not 11 pages in & a marvellous introduction to " The Sacraments Of Grooming".
"While showers are an excellent way of getting to know your privates during Military Service, they are not appropriate for civilian life.  A daily bath, taken immediately after a hearty breakfast, is an excellent way to mull over the tasks  ahead. After an hour or two in the bath, your pores should be open & your follicles primed for pruning. By now bathroom visibilty will be at a minimum, and you won't be able to see anything at all in the mirror,  let alone enough to scrape a cut-throat razor across your face. A very surprising , and very useful, chemical reaction seems to occur between the smoke produced by pipe tobacco & bathroom steam. Have a puff or two on your Briar and watch the steam miraculously clear, like the dawn mist lifting off the Amazon."

A Vintage suit was also purchased this week, complete with button braces! So for tomorrow's Formal Friday it'll probably be worn for the first time in the last 50 or so years. If anyone fancies being included in Formal Friday, all you simply have to do, is not dress down. Dress Up! Find the group on FB "Formal Friday In Britain". Feel free to even post your photos on there!





Also looking forward to the opening of a new Vintage Boutique tomorrow close by is that of "What Alice Found".




I don't think there could possibly ever be enough Vintage shops on this Island of ours, so wishing them all the best of luck for the opening tomorrow & to a busy weekend ahead!




The shop is in the Pokesdown area of Bournemouth on the Christchurch Road, & you can follow them on http://thecherryblogcouk.blogspot.com/2011/03/please-hurry-up.html

Good luck girls!

Pip pip.







Tuesday, 29 March 2011

Could Fridays Go Formal?

 A couple of us on the South Coast have been going formal on Fridays, as opposed to the norm, dress down Friday which has been with us now since the mid 90's.  Rather than slouching into the weekend, we've preferred to dress up, strach our shirts & ladies have nipped their waists in, beehived their hair up & gone into  work all the more glamourous.


  
A few friend's of mine in London have responded saying that their place of business is of the same opinion, and have in fact stopped "dress down Fridays" altogether complaining of lack of motivation & productivity from staff because of the relaxed rules on the dress code for that day.


 I'm a firm believer of when I put on a starched, white, collar pin shirt, 3 piece suit & polished brogues I feel ever so much more "ready for business" than in anything else I wear. I',m even pretty sure, clients I converse with on the telephone can tell, by my manner, that I am properly attired.





So far, our group on  FB, "Formal Friday in Britain", which had it's first one last Friday, consists of myself & two gentleman, and my girl. All of us with Vintage attire! Our view point is, it's actually a good enough reason to dress up, just a little bit more than we would from the Monday through to Thursday! To show some versatility, able to express ourselves more through individual accessories and show a touch of flair & also our love for Vintage Clothes & the lifestyle itself.

So I put this out there to all of you Vintage lovers! Could Fridays go Formal? And are we, as Vintage enthusiasts, more likely than normal folk to participate?

Friday, 25 March 2011

Thank Goodness it's Formal Friday

Our British inclusion in Formal Friday!


Sir Stuart Alexander, owner of Vintage shop Deco. Razor sharp as per usual!



Lord Jason "The Barber" Bailey in his 1940's Double Breasted short sleeve. We're promised Plus-Fours & the full works next week from The Lord!



And keeping an eye on passers by, myself. 



Fairly Formal.


Thursday, 24 March 2011

One March Week . . . . .

Tuesday was a glorious walk home in the sunshine with my handmade smokers tray, made by yours truly. To my amazing good luck even the Swan Vesta boxes fitted perfectly in place. Pipe & cigarette tobbacco tucked in nicely & Vesta strikers at the ready to be struck.










So upon the coffee table it awaits, to draw guests around to smoke in company.



With the wonder of Ebay how lucky I was to manage to win a perfect Geo F.Trumper Shaving Mug on Wednesday for next to nothing!


With the fanntastic illustration of "The Officer & A Gentleman" on.


A lifelong lasting inclusion to my shaving collection made by  probably the finest suppliers of Gentleman's fragrance & grooming products since 1875.


Also, a midweek call into the HQ of "Love From Hetty & Dave" for a gown to be poppered & adjusted so as to keep it in place whilst lounging!



And our Wednesday date night was a ride up the coast,  


Down past a couple of piers at no great speed, "I just like to potter along ain't it" the Girl quipped.






You can almost make out 4 days worth of moustacshe growth, a little did blow off, up the coast, when a stiff breeze picked up.







And here's to looking forward to tomorrow's "Formal Friday".  Of which the hosts Fine & Dandy go against the slouchiness of those who choose to dress down. We'll be including a few photos from Chaps of these shores on their site & the more the merrier! So please feel free to post yours if you so wish!



Tuesday, 22 March 2011

The Dandy's Dandy Editorial.

"Being a Dandy is a condition rather than a profession. It is a defense against suffering & a celebration of life. It is not fashion. It is not wealth. And it is not learning. It is not beauty. It is a shield & a sword & a crown - all pulled out of the  dressing up box in the attic of the imagination. Dandyism is a lie which reveals the truth & the truth is that we are what we pretend to be."
S. Horsley.